Weaving of the Feyli
Author(s)
Title
Weaving of the Feyli
Alternative Title
Feyli Viyun (ފޭލި ވިޔުން)
Publication Type
Language
div
Number of Pages
8
Location
Maldives
Keywords
Feyli
Clothing
Weaving
Maldives
Traditions
Relevance to ICH Safeguarding
Description
The Feyli is a traditional piece of clothing in the Maldives, renowned for its cultural significance and historical roots. Typically measuring about 4 feet in length, the Feyli is wrapped around the waist (width of 3 feet) or worn on the head (width of 12-14 inches), serving as a versatile garment. Historically, it played an essential role in the attire of royals, nobles, and officials, making it a symbol of status and tradition. Although worn by both genders, its prominence in formal settings has made it particularly associated with official attire.
The craft of weaving the Feyli, known as Feyli Viyun in Dhivehi, encompasses three main types that reflect the diverse cultural practices within the Maldives:
1. Hatharufatheege Feyli - Primarily worn by women, this version most decorative of the types of Feyli showcasing the artistry and skill of the weavers.
2. Thinfatheege Feyli - Mainly worn by men, this type is typically more straightforward in design but equally significant in cultural expression.
3. Bolufeyli - This unisex option is often worn on the head during formal occasions, symbolizing respect and adherence to tradition.
Traditionally, the Feyli were crafted on wooden looms using cotton, with artisans utilizing natural dyes to create colors like white, black, and brown. The weaving process was meticulous and could take up to 30 hours for a single piece, reflecting the time and effort invested in maintaining this cultural art form. Islands like Dhevvadhoo, Fohdhdhoo, and Kahchey Meedhoo were particularly known for their skilled weavers, who passed down their techniques through generations.
However, the introduction of globalization and reduced trade barriers has significantly impacted the traditional craft of Feyli Viyun. With easier access to imported clothing, many Maldivians have shifted to more affordable and convenient options, resulting in a decline in the practice of weaving Feyli. Today, the Feyli is primarily worn during special occasions and cultural celebrations, often in modern designs that may be commissioned from abroad.
Despite this shift, the Feyli remains a powerful symbol of national identity and pride for the Maldivians. Although the art of Feyli weaving is well-documented, only a handful of artisans continue to practice it, facing challenges in sustaining their craft amid changing economic conditions. Efforts to revive interest in traditional weaving are ongoing, as many are starting to recognize the importance of preserving this unique cultural heritage for future generations.
The craft of weaving the Feyli, known as Feyli Viyun in Dhivehi, encompasses three main types that reflect the diverse cultural practices within the Maldives:
1. Hatharufatheege Feyli - Primarily worn by women, this version most decorative of the types of Feyli showcasing the artistry and skill of the weavers.
2. Thinfatheege Feyli - Mainly worn by men, this type is typically more straightforward in design but equally significant in cultural expression.
3. Bolufeyli - This unisex option is often worn on the head during formal occasions, symbolizing respect and adherence to tradition.
Traditionally, the Feyli were crafted on wooden looms using cotton, with artisans utilizing natural dyes to create colors like white, black, and brown. The weaving process was meticulous and could take up to 30 hours for a single piece, reflecting the time and effort invested in maintaining this cultural art form. Islands like Dhevvadhoo, Fohdhdhoo, and Kahchey Meedhoo were particularly known for their skilled weavers, who passed down their techniques through generations.
However, the introduction of globalization and reduced trade barriers has significantly impacted the traditional craft of Feyli Viyun. With easier access to imported clothing, many Maldivians have shifted to more affordable and convenient options, resulting in a decline in the practice of weaving Feyli. Today, the Feyli is primarily worn during special occasions and cultural celebrations, often in modern designs that may be commissioned from abroad.
Despite this shift, the Feyli remains a powerful symbol of national identity and pride for the Maldivians. Although the art of Feyli weaving is well-documented, only a handful of artisans continue to practice it, facing challenges in sustaining their craft amid changing economic conditions. Efforts to revive interest in traditional weaving are ongoing, as many are starting to recognize the importance of preserving this unique cultural heritage for future generations.
Book/Journal Title
Publisher
National Center for Linguistic and Historical Research (Dhivehi Bahaa Thaareekha Khidhumaikuraa Gaumee Markaz)
Place of Publication
Male', Maldives
Date of Publication
Jul 1982
Issue
40
Pages
22-29
Academic Field
Arts and crafts
Cultural studies
Community/Ethnic Group
Maldivian craftsmen
Contributor
Active Contribution
Maldives, FY 2024